Textile Specifications and Evaluation
All textile inspections will be conducted in accordance with The Four Point System. The Four Point System derives its name from the basic grading rules:
1. No more than four penalty points may be assigned for any single defect. And:
2. No more than four penalty points may be assigned to one linear yard (meter),
regardless of the number of defects within that one-yard (meter).
Penalty Point Evaluation
Defects in both the course/wale or warp/fill directions will be assigned points using the following criteria:
Imperial Metric
1 Point Defects up to 3" Defects up to 75 mm
2 Points Defects > 3" < 6" Defects > 75 mm < 150 mm
3 Points Defects > 6" < 9" Defects > 150 mm < 230 mm
4 Points Defects > 9" Defects > 230 mm
A continuous defect (such as barre, side center side shading, roll to roll shading, narrow or irregular width, creasing, uneven finish) shall be assigned four points for each yard (meter) in which the defect occurs within the shipment.
Point Calculation (Imperial)
All textiles are evaluated on a square yard computation. The formula used to determine the point count level of a roll of a fabric is as follows:
1. Total Points x 3,600/Inspected yards x Cuttable Fabric Width (inches) = Points per 100 sq yd
The total penalty points shall be divided by the product of the yardage inspected multiplied by the cuttable width in inches. The result obtained shall be multiplied by 3,600 to calculate points per 100 square yards.
2. Total Points x 3,600/Total Inspected Yards x Cuttable Width (inches) = Shipment Points
The total linear yard points shall be divided by the product of the yardage inspected multiplied by the cuttable width in inches. The result obtained shall be multiplied by 3,600 to calculate shipment point count per 100 square yards.
Point Calculation (Metric)
All textiles are evaluated on a square meter computation. The formula used to determine the point count level of a roll of fabric is as follows:
1. Total Points x 10,000/Inspected Meters x Cuttable Fabric Width (cm) = Points per 100 m2
The total penalty points shall be divided by the product of the meters inspected multiplied by the cuttable width in centimeters. The result obtained shall be multiplied by 10,000 to calculate points per 100 square meters.
2. Total Linear Meter Points x 10,000/Total Inspected Meters x Cuttable Width (cm) = Shipment Points
The total linear meter points shall be divided by the product of the meters inspected multiplied by the cuttable width in centimeters. The result obtained shall be multiplied by 10,000 to calculate shipment point count per 100 square meters.
Inspection Quantities
The minimum inspection quantity for each shipment is 1,000 yards (meters). The quantity to be inspected is 15% of the total order in each color.
Fabric Group Classifications
Group One All Synthetics-Polyester/Nylon/Acetate
Dress Shirtings > 50/1
Filament Rayon's
Worsted Spun
Luxury Fibers
Group Two Denims > 12 oz sq yard
Canvas
Poplin/Oxford Gingham Shirting > 32/ 1, < 50/ 1
Twills
Woolen Spun 4 - 8 oz/ sq yard
Group Three All Specialty Fabric (Jacquard/ Seersucker/ Dobby)
Chambray/ Indigo Yarn Dyes
Corduroy
Flannel
Fleece
Silk Fabrics (except Indian Silk and Dupioni Silk)
Velvet
Group Four Linen
Muslin
Group Five Shantung/Dupioni Silk
Indian Silk
Boucle/other slubbed fabrics
Acceptable Point Count Levels
Textile-Box has divided various types of textiles into five classification groups. An acceptable penalty point count level has been assigned to each group.
Individual rolls with penalty point count levels exceeding the stated requirements of the classified group shall be rejected, graded as second quality and may not be shipped. A shipment will fail the inspection if the shipment penalty
point count exceeds the specified point count level, or if more than 10% of the total yards audited are graded as second quality. No second quality fabric may be shipped.
Imperial Individual Roll Shipment
Group One 15 points/ 100 sq yds 12 points/ 100 sq yds
Group Two 20 points/ 100 sq yds 16 points/ 100 sq yds
Group Three 25 points/ 100 sq yds 20 points/ 100 sq yds
Group Four 40 points/ 100 sq yds 32 points/ 100 sq yds
Group Five 50 points/ 100 sq yds 40 points/ 100 sq yds
Metric Individual Roll Shipment
Group One 18 points/ 100 sq m 14 points/ 100 sq m
Group Two 24 points/ 100 sq m 19 points/ 100 sq m
Group Three 30 points/ 100 sq m 24 points/ 100 sq m
Group Four 48 points/ 100 sq m 38 points/ 100 sq m
Group Five 60 points/ 100 sq m 49 points/ 100 sq m
